I'm a young bald chick, here's some info about how to find a good wig.

TLDR I'M A YOUNG BALD CHICK, HERE’S INFO ABOUT WIGS

IF YOU’RE JUST LOOKING FOR LINKS TO WEBSITES FOR WIGS, YOU WILL BE DISAPPOINTED

Sorry in advance for the wall of text.

I see posts pop up now and then here asking for help with wigs, but they don’t get much attention. I think that’s because, if you really want a good wig, you need to do some learning/research to wrangle with the black hole that is online shopping.

My interest in wigs was driven by my own hair loss, but this guide is for anyone who wants to purchase a wig but doesn’t know wtf is up.

Me

No wig

With current wig

When I was 18, I was diagnosed with alopecia areata, which is basically a fancy term for “your hair is falling out.” At the time, I was completely devastated. I always assumed that my elder brother would bald first, since he’s older and also male.

I don’t want to minimize the effects this had on my self-image as a young woman trying to figure shit out, but I also don’t want to lament them here. I would like to encourage anyone currently struggling with alopecia or hair loss—or anyone who thinks they may be—to either post here or PM me if they’d like to speak to someone in a similar situation. The world has no fucking idea how to react to bald women.

Entering the world of hair replacement systems was absurd. I typed “wigs” into Google and found:

• words I had never seen before (the fuck is Kanekalon?)
• that most commonly, wigs appear to be marketed toward older women, cosplayers, and black women
• that many wig sellers will say basically anything if it gets them a sale
• someone named Remy?

I was too embarrassed initially to leave the house and try on wigs in public, so I basically ended up ordering a lot of really shitty wigs. Now, at 22, with much daily experience under my belt, I feel like I’m beginning to get a handle on all the information, so hopefully I can assemble the most salient points here for anyone trying to enter the vast abyss that is buying hair online (or at all).

I am by no means an expert, nor your doctor, nor your hair specialist, nor your friend’s roommate who went to cosmetology school, and do not claim to be—just a young woman who’s spent the last four years educating herself and purchasing lots of shitty wigs (and then finally some good ones).

This information is not exhaustive; it’s a reference point for those alien to the world of wigs. It's a guide to help ease unfamiliars in.

Should I buy a synthetic wig or a human hair wig? Or a blend of both?

This choice depends on a few factors which can basically be summed up as 1) your goal for your wig and 2) your budget.

Synthetic hair

Synthetic hair, as the name suggests, is made out of synthetic materials—aka, not human hair. The most common synthetic wig materials are Kanekalon and Toyokalon, though there are more.

• Kanekalon is cheap, lightweight, and can be heat-styled (gently; low temperatures are required, or the hair can melt). Kanekalon can look fairly realistic! The only caveats are that it reflects light slightly differently than natural hair (making it look a bit too glossy or plastic-y), and that it does not move exactly like real hair. It also tangles fairly easily.
• Toyokalon is similar to Kanekalon: cheap, lightweight, and can be heat-styled on low temperatures. It is slightly softer than Kanekalon, as well as slightly glossier. It tangles less than Kanekalon, and is therefore used more frequently for curly wigs.

Most wigs made of synthetic materials nowadays can be heat-styled, but I recommend Googling the materials of your synthetic wigs if you plan on heat-styling them. Never take a heat styling tool to a synthetic wig without checking (ask how I know!*).

In my opinion, synthetic wigs are best for:

• People who don’t want to spend a lot of money; these can be as low as $30
• People who need a wig for cosplay/some other costume
• People looking for a wig to hide their cut/color for conservative work environments
• People who will otherwise only use the wig occasionally (for fun, etc)
• People freaked out at the idea of wearing someone else’s hair on their braincase

Synthetic materials definitely look less natural than human hair; the texture, movement, and sheen will differ slightly. They generally do not last as long as human hair wigs, either.

You cannot dye synthetic hair wigs using hair dye, but I’ve seen YouTube tutorials of women who have dyed their synthetic wigs with ink pigment. I’ve never personally tried it so I can’t vouch for it, but I plan on doing so in the future!

Human hair

Human hair is—obviously—hair from humans. It is generally categorized by geography: Chinese, Indonesia, Indian, and European.

• Chinese hair is generally very straight, and can be difficult to curl or style due to its density.
• Indonesian hair is the most prevalent on the market, and the cheapest. It is very coarse.
• Indian hair is thinner and finer than Chinese or Indonesian hair.
• European hair is the least prevalent, and the finest. It is also the most expensive.

Human hair is processed before it is turned into a wig; chemicals are used to remove the original color of the hair, change the texture or curl pattern, and dye it to whatever color it will be sold as. I prefer to buy hair marked “Remy,” which basically means that when the hair is processed, the cuticles of the hair and the ends are kept consistent, i.e. going the same direction. This decreases tangling, and makes the hair feel silkier.

Human hair will, surprise surprise, look the most realistic. I’ve discovered, in my search, that recreating the movement of a natural head of hair is insanely fucking difficult (see hair animation in video games am I right?). Human hair, again, also tends to last longer than synthetic hair.

Human hair can be heat-styled like natural hair. Depending on how you attach the wig to your head (and that’s a whole other section), it’s possible to sleep, swim, and shower in wigs, too (though I do not recommend this—will elaborate later). It is also possible to bleach or dye human hair, though unless you are experienced working with hair replacement systems, I recommend seeing a WIG expert, not your local hairdresser (ask me how I know!**). Unless they’re a wig expert. Wigs can be difficult to work with, and don’t always respond like natural hair would.

In my opinion, human hair wigs are best for:

• People who can afford to spend a little (or a lot) more money; human hair wigs generally start closer to $100, and go up to over $10k (seriously)
• People looking to seamlessly recreate a natural head of hair consistently
• People willing and able to spend time to take care of them(!!!!)

Human hair requires a lot of effort to properly care for; hair off of the head does not act like hair still attached to the head. It will tangle much more easily than a natural head of hair, requires a much gentler touch (and specific styling tools), and will totally ruin you financially if you’re committed to buying them but don’t take care of them.

What kind of cap construction should I get?

Again, this answer depends on what your goals and budget are.

There are many different features and cap construction types; here are a few key words to look for when making your choice.

• Hand-tied wigs are wigs where each and every strand of hair is attached individually to the cap of the wig, instead of in wefts. This is the best option for recreating the movement of natural hair.
• Lace-front wigs are wigs that have lace protruding from the front of the hairline. You cut the lace down to your hairline (the picture linked has it uncut). This simulates a natural hairline (see this photo. If you want to pull the wig back from your face, or tuck it behind your ears, a lace front is a good option.
• Full-lace wigs are wigs with caps constructed entirely of lace. This is a good option for those wishing to pull their hair off their neck; just like how the lace-front wig makes it appear as though the hair is growing from your forehead, the lace sides and back will make it appear as though the hair by your ears, or the nape of your neck, is also coming from your skin. While this is undeniably awesome, lace is INCREDIBLY fragile, and easy to rip. You do not want to rip your cap. I would recommend against buying a full-lace wig if it is expensive, or your first wig purchase.
• Monofilament wigs are wigs with a section in the front that extends back several inches. This allows for hair to be parted wherever, and simulates natural directional hair growth. They look pretty convincing.

Any wig you purchase should ideally have a photo of the wig inside-out, so you can inspect the cap structure. My preference would be something like this. It has a lace front, so you can brush it off your face; a monofilament top, so you can part it anywhere; it’s hand-tied, so the hair moves better; and it has EAR FLAPS (lovely, lovely ear flaps). I HIGHLY recommend caps with ear flaps. It simulates the beginning of “sideburns” and looks much more natural.

Cap construction is also relevant when you consider how it is you want to attach your wig.

How do I get it to stay on?

The most common methods are combs/clips, tape, and glue.

Many wigs will, on the inside of the cap, have combs or clips like this or this. If you have natural hair under your wig, these aren’t bad options; however, they can put stress on your natural hair if you make them too tight, or wear them in the same places consistently. One of my hairstylists told me to rotate which clips I used within the cap, so as not to cause strain on the same spot of my head. Often times, caps like this are also adjustable. Easy.

Other wigs (like full-lace wigs) are attached by glue or tape. If you have natural hair, I recommend avoiding using glue or tape if you can; it is messy, it is sticky, it will get all over your hands and then everything you love, and it WILL get stuck in your natural hair or the wig itself, you will cry, and have to cut it out with scissors. If you are inexperienced with wigs, DO NOT USE GLUE OR TAPE. Seriously can’t stress that enough. It took me months before I was able to do it efficiently and without completely fucking something up.

The upside to tapes and glues is that they can last for a long time. The tape I used for my last piece would keep it securely on my head for upwards of five weeks; I would (as I mentioned earlier) swim, sleep, and shower in it. This is VERY rough on the wig, and decreases its lifespan dramatically.

What should I know when buying a wig?

• I really believe, if possible, wig purchases should be done in person. Wigs are one of those items that generally can’t be returned; it’s a lot easier to identify problems with the hair (color, texture, etc) or cap construction if you get to physically touch it.
• If a deal seems too good to be true, it totally is. No one is selling a 24” Hand-tied, Full-Lace, European Virgin Remy Human Hair Wig for $100. Especially not the Chinese sellers on eBay.
• eBay gets its own separate rant: be VERY cautious about purchasing on eBay; many sellers will use pictures of models or actresses, NOT of the actual hair. If possible, make sure there is a picture of the actual piece you will be buying. Stock images of cap constructions can also be misleading. That being said, I have purchased wigs that have suited my need off of eBay; do your research and, if need be, acknowledge you might be taking a risk with your money.
• Check for inconsistencies in the item itself—like this listing for a “Full Lace Wig Chinese Virgin Human Hair Bleach Blond.” Unless the Chinese people they got this hair from were blonde, there is no possible way this hair is “virgin” (i.e., unprocessed). Therefore, I probably wouldn’t purchase from this seller—they’re throwing around buzzwords they know wig hunters will like.
• Do not necessarily trust beauty vloggers! Not because they’re purposefully lying to you, but because the companies may be. In short, there are reports of scams run by wig companies; they send a wig of exceptional quality to beauty vloggers; the vloggers ooh and aah over the hair on their vlog; viewers rush to the company to purchase the hair; the company ships lower quality hair that the customer can’t return. Wah-wah.

One more thing—if you have alopecia like me, and are looking to purchase a system, be prepared for businesses to try and prey on your insecurity in order to make a sale.

The first place I went to—described on Yelp as a “hair replacement center”—supposedly specialized in alopecia. It was my first time out of the house since my hair had almost completely fallen out. I was in a very vulnerable place.

She showed me a bunch of hairstyles I didn’t like (think Grandma from the ‘70s), touched my head without asking me, and said that it was a shame; that this would happen to such a pretty girl. Then she shoved a camera in my face (!!) to take photos of my scalp. Then tried to sell me a $3k wig.

I told them I would have to think about it, and left. They called me several weeks later, and we said we weren’t interested. So they sent me this letter. I’ll let it speak for itself.

Don’t let anyone take advantage of you.

If anyone has any questions, corrections, or additions, please share!

*I know because I melted a wig.

*I know because I brought a wig to my long-time hairdresser pal who has limited experience in wigs, and he accidentally ruined it.